A Buyer's Guide to Heritage Camping Bedrolls in 2026
Real bedrolls, canvas tarps wrapped around wool blankets, beat modern sleeping bags for horseback camps and base camps. Here's how to pick one, build one, or buy one.

A heritage bedroll is the kit that preceded sleeping bags and outlasts them. Canvas tarp on the bottom and outside, wool blankets on the inside, rolled and tied with rope, lashed to a packsaddle or thrown in a truck bed. The form is unchanged since the 1880s and the reasons for it are unchanged: it works, it lasts, and it does six other jobs besides keeping you warm at night.
This guide covers what to look for in a bedroll, the products worth knowing across price points, and how to build your own if you would rather. The whole thing is simpler than the shopping pages make it look.
What a bedroll actually is
The basic configuration:
- Outer tarp. 7’ x 10’ canvas, treated waxed or untreated. 10-12 oz weight. Heavy enough to shed light rain and ground moisture, light enough to roll. The tarp wraps the blankets, lays under you on the ground, and folds over the top to keep wind off.
- Wool blankets, two or three. Pendleton, Hudson’s Bay Point, Filson Mackinaw, or Faribault, 4 to 5 lbs each, 64” x 84” or larger. One under, one over, third for cold nights. Wool retains warmth when damp, breathes, and resists fire-spark damage.
- A wool ground pad (optional). A folded blanket under the tarp adds insulation from cold ground. The Mexican or Pendleton trade blanket (smaller, 60” x 80”, $80-150) is the standard.
- Rope. 30 feet of 1/4” or 3/8” cotton rope. For tying the rolled bedroll and sometimes for rigging an over-tarp.
That is the entire system. Total weight when packed: 12-18 lbs. Total cost when assembled new: $400-1,200 depending on blanket and tarp quality. Lifespan: 30-50 years with re-waxing every few years.
The kit doubles as: ground tarp under the saddle during the day, gear cover for tack and panniers in rain, makeshift seating, emergency shelter for a horse with a wet wound, and roughly twenty other uses that you discover the third or fourth time you take a bedroll into the field.
Why bedrolls outperform sleeping bags for the right use case
A modern sleeping bag is engineered for backpacking: minimum weight, maximum warmth-per-ounce, single intended use. The compromises are durability (5-10 year life with regular use), modularity (one rating, no flexibility), and second uses (none, the bag is only good for sleeping).
A bedroll is engineered for horse camps and base camps, and it makes the opposite trade-offs. Heavier (12-18 lbs vs 3-5 lbs). Modular (add or remove blankets for temperature). Multi-purpose (six to ten uses beyond sleeping). Indefinitely repairable (a torn tarp gets a canvas patch, a worn blanket gets re-bound).
For the right use case, packing in by horse, basecamping for several days at a stationary site, sleeping in a wall tent or a teepee, working a chuckwagon, or just keeping a rugged sleep system in a truck for unplanned overnights, the bedroll wins. For backpacking ten miles to a high camp, the sleeping bag wins. They are different tools for different jobs.

What to look for in a commercial bedroll
If you are buying a finished bedroll rather than building one, the things that distinguish a good one from a marketing-driven one:
Tarp weight and treatment. 10-12 oz waxed canvas is the standard. 7-9 oz is too light for ground use; 14+ oz is overkill and adds weight without function. Wax treatment can be original (Filson Tin Cloth, British Millerain) or applied later (Frost River uses a proprietary wax). Untreated canvas is acceptable if you are willing to wax it yourself; cheaper but adds 30 minutes of prep.
Tarp dimensions. 7’ x 10’ minimum. Larger riders need 7’ x 12’. The tarp should wrap your blankets fully with at least 18” of overlap on all sides for weather protection.
Tarp construction. Double-stitched seams, reinforced corner grommets, hemmed edges. A tarp with single-stitched seams or unhemmed edges will fail in weather. Look for at least four corner grommets and two grommets per long side for tie-down points.
Blanket weight and material. 100% wool (no synthetic blends), 5 lbs minimum per blanket for the primary layers. Pendleton’s 64” x 84” blanket weighs about 5 lbs and is the reference standard. Hudson’s Bay Point blankets in 4-point weight (about 4.5 lbs) work equally well and have more historic character. Avoid acrylic, polyester, or synthetic-blend “wool blend” blankets, they don’t insulate when damp and they melt in fire sparks.
Rope and tie system. Cotton rope 1/4” or 3/8”, 30 feet minimum. Synthetic rope is acceptable but slips more in knots. Some bedrolls come with leather or canvas straps with buckles instead of rope, these are easier to use but harder to repair in the field.
Pricing and what each tier gets you
Budget tier ($200-400). Generic “cowboy bedroll” listings on Amazon and eBay. Usually a thinner canvas (8 oz) with one or two cheap wool-blend blankets. Functional for occasional truck-camping; will not last horse-camping use. Skip unless you are a complete beginner trying out the format before investing.
Mid-tier ($400-700). Frost River, Cabela’s heritage line, smaller maker shops. Real waxed canvas, real wool blankets (often Pendleton or Faribault), proper construction. This is the sweet spot for a working bedroll that will last 20+ years. Frost River’s Cowboy Bedroll (around $475 without blankets) is the reference value pick.
Premium tier ($700-1,500+). Custom-made bedrolls from saddlemaker shops, Marc Allen Leather, Saddleback Leather, and similar. Often with leather corner reinforcements, tooled brand markings, and Hudson’s Bay or premium Pendleton wool. These are heirloom objects, beautiful, indefinitely repairable, sometimes built to a specific rider’s preferences. The premium over the mid-tier is mostly aesthetic and craft, not function.
For most buyers: mid-tier from Frost River or a similar maker, paired with two new Pendleton 5 lb blankets ($150-250 each), totals around $800-1,000 for a complete system that will outlast the buyer.
Building one yourself
A weekend afternoon, $400-600, and basic sewing skills get you a bedroll equivalent to a $700-1,000 commercial unit.
Materials:
- 7’ x 10’ piece of 10-12 oz waxed canvas, Big Duck Canvas, Northwest Canvas, or any marine supply. $80-150.
- 6 brass corner grommets and 4 side grommets, Tandy Leather or hardware store. $10.
- Heavy waxed thread for hemming, $5.
- Two Pendleton wool blankets, full size, $300-500.
- 30 feet of 1/4” cotton rope — also doubles as lash rope for pack saddle use, $28.
Build:
- Hem the canvas edges (1/2” double-fold, machine-stitched with a heavy needle). 30 minutes.
- Install grommets at four corners and one in the middle of each long side. 15 minutes.
- Apply a coat of beeswax-paraffin treatment to any unwaxed canvas (heat with a hairdryer, work in with a brush). 30 minutes.
- Practice rolling and tying. 20 minutes for a beginner; will become muscle memory after three or four uses.
Total time: about 2 hours active work plus drying time.
The skills required are below those of basic alteration sewing. The materials are commodity. The result is a piece of gear identical in function to anything you can buy for double the price.

How to roll and tie a bedroll
The practical knowledge that gets left out of most articles:
- Lay the canvas tarp flat on the ground, long edge facing you.
- Stack the blankets on top, centered, folded once lengthwise so they are roughly 32” wide.
- Place any soft small gear (jacket, spare socks, hat) inside the blankets.
- Fold the canvas top edge down over the blankets by about 18”.
- Fold the bottom edge up by 18”, overlapping the top fold.
- Fold the left and right sides inward by 18” each, so the bedroll is now a rectangle roughly 32” x 60”.
- Starting from one short end, roll tightly, keeping tension across the width.
- Tie with rope at three points: 12” from each end and once in the middle. Square knots. Leave 12” of rope tail on each tie for lashing to a packsaddle.
A well-tied bedroll holds its shape for days, sheds rain, and lashes flat to either side of a packsaddle without rolling.
Manufacturers and resources worth knowing
- Frost River (Duluth, MN). The current best value in commercial bedrolls. Direct ordering through their website.
- Pendleton Woolen Mills (Portland, OR). The standard for U.S.-made wool blankets since 1863. Available everywhere, but ordering direct gets the full pattern selection.
- Hudson’s Bay Company (Canada). The Point Blanket. Iconic design, excellent quality, slightly heavier than Pendleton. Available through The Bay or specialist outdoor retailers.
- Filson Mackinaw wool products. The Mackinaw blanket and related goods. Premium U.S. wool, harder to source than Pendleton but excellent quality.
- Big Duck Canvas (online). Wholesale-grade canvas by the yard, including waxed cotton in proper weights for bedroll construction.
- Faribault Woolen Mill (Minnesota). A second-tier U.S. wool option, more affordable than Pendleton, very acceptable quality.
What this kit looks like after twenty years
A friend in central Wyoming, a working outfitter, has been using the same bedroll for 22 years. The canvas has been re-waxed five times. One blanket has been re-bound on the edge by a local seamstress. The rope has been replaced twice. Total maintenance investment over 22 years: approximately $80 in wax, $40 in rope, and $25 for blanket re-binding. Original purchase price: $620 in 2003 dollars.
The bedroll has slept in twelve states, on three pack trips into the Bob Marshall Wilderness, six trips into the Wind Rivers, and roughly 200 nights in his back pasture during foaling season. It still rolls cleanly, ties tight, and sheds water.
There are no $200 sleeping bags in the world that have done this. There is no $200 sleeping bag that will. The bedroll is the right tool for the job, and once you have one set up properly, it tends to be the only sleep system you actively want for that job for the rest of your life.
Related reading on this site
- The Wyoming Trading Post guide to horseback camping
- How to pack for a four-day horse camp trip in the Bighorns
- Waxed canvas vs oiled leather: which to choose for wet-weather camps
- Wyoming’s best horse packing trails: a working rider’s shortlist
- Building a working-ranch first aid kit
- Wyoming horse breeds: what works in mountain country
Further reading
- Frost River Field Notes, articles on canvas care, packing, and bedroll history from one of the few current manufacturers.
- Range magazine, covers cattle-country gear and culture; bedroll references in most issues.
- The Pendleton company history page, well-documented history of American wool blanket production.
Frequently asked questions
Why use a bedroll instead of a modern sleeping bag?
Three reasons. Durability, a canvas bedroll lasts 30+ years, a sleeping bag lasts 5-10 even with care. Modularity, you can adjust blanket layers for the temperature instead of being locked into one bag rating. Use case, bedrolls pack flat on a packsaddle and double as ground cover, gear protection during the day, and a porch chair when not sleeping. The trade-off: weight. A bedroll weighs 12-18 lbs vs 3-5 lbs for an equivalent-warmth sleeping bag. Bedrolls are right for horse camps and base camps; sleeping bags are right for backpacking.
How warm does a bedroll get?
A 12oz canvas tarp wrapped around two wool blankets (Pendleton 5 lb each, or Hudson's Bay 4-point) and a wool sleeping pad keeps you comfortable to about 25°F with full clothing. Add a third blanket for 10°F. Add a small wool sleeping bag liner inside for 0°F. The system is modular: layer up or strip down based on conditions. Modern goose-down sleeping bag equivalents would be 20°F, 0°F, and -20°F respectively.
Can I make my own bedroll?
Yes. A 7' x 10' piece of 10-12oz waxed canvas (around $80-120 from a marine canvas supplier or Big Duck Canvas), two Pendleton wool blankets ($150-250 each), and 30 feet of cotton rope. Total cost: $400-600 vs $700-1,200 for a finished commercial bedroll. The build is one weekend afternoon. The skills required are minimal, measuring, hemming the canvas edges, and learning to roll and tie. YouTube has good tutorials.